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表1羊絨衫(shan)起球(qiu)評定(ding)指標(biao)
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羊絨衫起球的原因分析及評定指標
時間：19-06-25 08:34
羊(yang)(yang)絨衫(shan)以其非凡的(de)(de)風格和(he)高雅(ya)的(de)(de)氣質，深受(shou)廣大消費(fei)者的(de)(de)喜愛，但羊(yang)(yang)絨衫(shan)起球(qiu)問題普遍，嚴(yan)重困擾了消費(fei)者的(de)(de)使用。羊(yang)(yang)絨衫(shan)起球(qiu)與羊(yang)(yang)絨纖維特(te)點(dian)、面料結構和(he)消費(fei)者穿著習慣都有關系。國家標準(zhun)規定(ding)，只要羊(yang)(yang)絨衫(shan)起球(qiu)等級不超過允許的(de)(de)范(fan)圍就是合格產品，即使質量最上乘的(de)(de)羊(yang)(yang)絨衫(shan)，在(zai)剛開始穿著時(shi)也(ye)會在(zai)的(de)(de)適度的(de)(de)范(fan)圍內有輕微(wei)的(de)(de)起球(qiu)現(xian)象。本(ben)文為您做詳細分析(xi)。
一、羊絨衫起球的(de)原因
1）纖(xian)維紗(sha)線
羊(yang)(yang)(yang)絨(rong)(rong)纖維(wei)(wei)(wei)的(de)(de)細度(du)、長度(du)、卷(juan)曲(qu)是重要的(de)(de)工藝特征，羊(yang)(yang)(yang)絨(rong)(rong)與羊(yang)(yang)(yang)毛(mao)相(xiang)比，首先(xian)是細度(du)小、長度(du)短、卷(juan)曲(qu)數少(shao)，這樣纖維(wei)(wei)(wei)在紗中抱(bao)合力小，外(wai)露(lu)毛(mao)羽多，再加上纖維(wei)(wei)(wei)滑糯在外(wai)力的(de)(de)作(zuo)(zuo)用下從織(zhi)物(wu)中滑移(yi)而產生(sheng)掉(diao)絨(rong)(rong)起球(qiu)。其次(ci)是其纖維(wei)(wei)(wei)的(de)(de)縮絨(rong)(rong)性(xing)和磨擦系(xi)數均小，纖維(wei)(wei)(wei)間的(de)(de)磨擦阻力減少(shao)，但因羊(yang)(yang)(yang)絨(rong)(rong)纖維(wei)(wei)(wei)的(de)(de)鱗(lin)片(pian)結(jie)構(gou)，使得羊(yang)(yang)(yang)絨(rong)(rong)純紡或是與羊(yang)(yang)(yang)毛(mao)混紡的(de)(de)織(zhi)物(wu)，羊(yang)(yang)(yang)絨(rong)(rong)易從織(zhi)物(wu)中滑移(yi)出來，當纖維(wei)(wei)(wei)的(de)(de)集(ji)合體(ti)受到無定向性(xing)外(wai)力的(de)(de)作(zuo)(zuo)用，逆(ni)鱗(lin)片(pian)受力的(de)(de)纖維(wei)(wei)(wei)容易不斷向根部移(yi)運，產生(sheng)掉(diao)絨(rong)(rong)，由(you)于(yu)鱗(lin)片(pian)之(zhi)間的(de)(de)棘鎖和纖維(wei)(wei)(wei)體(ti)的(de)(de)彈(dan)性(xing)，纖維(wei)(wei)(wei)相(xiang)互交錯纏結(jie)起球(qiu)，也引起了(le)動物(wu)纖維(wei)(wei)(wei)所(suo)特有的(de)(de)氈縮。
羊(yang)(yang)絨(rong)纖(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)的導電(dian)(dian)(dian)能力(li)差，衣服在(zai)穿著時，纖(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)間(jian)互相磨擦(ca)，造成電(dian)(dian)(dian)荷(he)在(zai)纖(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)聚集(ji)，產生靜電(dian)(dian)(dian)現象，介電(dian)(dian)(dian)系數高的纖(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)帶(dai)正電(dian)(dian)(dian)荷(he)，反之(zhi)帶(dai)負(fu)電(dian)(dian)(dian)荷(he)。如化學(xue)纖(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)與羊(yang)(yang)絨(rong)磨擦(ca)時，化學(xue)纖(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)帶(dai)負(fu)電(dian)(dian)(dian)荷(he)，羊(yang)(yang)絨(rong)纖(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)帶(dai)正電(dian)(dian)(dian)荷(he)。不相同電(dian)(dian)(dian)荷(he)的纖(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)之(zhi)間(jian)相互吸引(yin)，易造成織物掉絨(rong)起球，當天氣(qi)干燥時這種現象尤(you)為嚴重。
纖(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)的(de)卷曲(qu)波形(xing)愈(yu)多，在(zai)(zai)加捻時(shi)，纖(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)越不容易(yi)伸展(zhan)，在(zai)(zai)摩(mo)擦過程中纖(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)容易(yi)松動(dong)滑移(yi)，在(zai)(zai)紗線表面形(xing)成毛茸。為此，纖(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)卷曲(qu)性愈(yu)好(hao)，愈(yu)易(yi)起球。纖(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)愈(yu)細(xi)，顯露在(zai)(zai)紗線表面的(de)纖(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)頭端就多，纖(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)柔軟性也(ye)(ye)愈(yu)好(hao)，因此細(xi)纖(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)比粗(cu)纖(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)易(yi)于糾(jiu)纏起球。而對于纖(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)長(chang)度來講(jiang)，較(jiao)短纖(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)比長(chang)纖(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)易(yi)于起毛起球，因游(you)離(li)纖(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)較(jiao)多，且短纖(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)之間的(de)摩(mo)擦力(li)及抱合力(li)均較(jiao)小(xiao)，纖(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)易(yi)于滑到織物表面，也(ye)(ye)就容易(yi)產生起球現象。
紗(sha)(sha)線(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)的(de)捻度(du)(du)和表(biao)面(mian)(mian)光(guang)潔(jie)程(cheng)度(du)(du)對(dui)起(qi)球也有較大(da)影響(xiang)，捻度(du)(du)高(gao)的(de)紗(sha)(sha)線(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)，纖(xian)(xian)維間的(de)抱合緊密，紗(sha)(sha)線(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)在受到摩(mo)擦時(shi)，纖(xian)(xian)維從(cong)紗(sha)(sha)線(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)內滑移相對(dui)少(shao)，起(qi)球現象減(jian)少(shao)；由于羊絨(rong)衫(shan)是柔軟性織物(wu)(wu)，過高(gao)的(de)捻度(du)(du)會使織物(wu)(wu)發硬，因此(ci)不能靠(kao)提高(gao)捻度(du)(du)來(lai)防止(zhi)起(qi)球。紗(sha)(sha)線(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)光(guang)潔(jie)度(du)(du)的(de)影響(xiang)，紗(sha)(sha)線(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)越光(guang)潔(jie)，表(biao)面(mian)(mian)毛(mao)茸則(ze)短而少(shao)，所以(yi)光(guang)潔(jie)紗(sha)(sha)線(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)不易(yi)起(qi)球。
2）織物組織結構
織(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)組織(zhi)(zhi)結(jie)構疏松的織(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)比結(jie)構緊(jin)密(mi)的織(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)易(yi)起(qi)毛(mao)起(qi)球(qiu)(qiu)，結(jie)構緊(jin)密(mi)的織(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)與(yu)外界物(wu)體摩(mo)擦(ca)時，不易(yi)產生毛(mao)茸，已經存在的毛(mao)茸，又(you)由于纖維之間的摩(mo)擦(ca)阻(zu)力較大，而(er)不易(yi)滑(hua)到織(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)表(biao)(biao)面來，故可減輕起(qi)毛(mao)起(qi)球(qiu)(qiu)現(xian)象。高(gao)機號織(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)一般比較緊(jin)密(mi)，所以低機號織(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)比高(gao)機號織(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)易(yi)起(qi)毛(mao)起(qi)球(qiu)(qiu)。表(biao)(biao)面平整的織(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)不易(yi)起(qi)毛(mao)起(qi)球(qiu)(qiu)，表(biao)(biao)面凹凸(tu)不平的織(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)易(yi)起(qi)毛(mao)起(qi)球(qiu)(qiu)。
3）染(ran)整工藝(yi)的影響(xiang)
紗(sha)線(xian)(xian)或織(zhi)(zhi)物經(jing)染(ran)(ran)色(se)(se)(se)及(ji)整(zheng)理以(yi)(yi)后，對抗起(qi)球(qiu)(qiu)性將產(chan)生較大影(ying)響，這與(yu)染(ran)(ran)料、助劑、染(ran)(ran)整(zheng)工(gong)藝條(tiao)件(jian)有關(guan)，以(yi)(yi)絞紗(sha)染(ran)(ran)色(se)(se)(se)的(de)(de)紗(sha)線(xian)(xian)比用散(san)毛染(ran)(ran)色(se)(se)(se)或毛條(tiao)染(ran)(ran)色(se)(se)(se)的(de)(de)紗(sha)線(xian)(xian)易起(qi)球(qiu)(qiu)；以(yi)(yi)成衫染(ran)(ran)色(se)(se)(se)的(de)(de)織(zhi)(zhi)物比紗(sha)線(xian)(xian)染(ran)(ran)色(se)(se)(se)所織(zhi)(zhi)的(de)(de)織(zhi)(zhi)物易起(qi)球(qiu)(qiu)；織(zhi)(zhi)物經(jing)過定型，特(te)別是(shi)經(jing)樹(shu)脂整(zheng)理后，其抗起(qi)毛起(qi)球(qiu)(qiu)性將大大增強。
4）穿著條件的影響
起球(qiu)(qiu)現象需(xu)要從紡(fang)織品起球(qiu)(qiu)的(de)機理說起。羊(yang)絨衫在穿著過程中，由于外罩（如外衣(yi)）施(shi)加的(de)摩(mo)擦等作用，紗線中較短的(de)纖(xian)維(wei)的(de)一端滑移(yi)出(chu)來，在織物表面(mian)相互纏結(jie)成(cheng)球(qiu)(qiu)。而羊(yang)絨纖(xian)維(wei)比羊(yang)毛的(de)纖(xian)維(wei)細而短，加上一般的(de)羊(yang)絨衫為粗梳產(chan)品，羊(yang)絨紗中的(de)短纖(xian)維(wei)含量(liang)較高，更(geng)容(rong)易“呲”出(chu)來彼此纏結(jie)。
因此羊絨衫(shan)在(zai)內(nei)穿(chuan)(chuan)時，與其配套的(de)外衣里(li)子(zi)最(zui)好是光滑(hua)的(de)，不(bu)能太(tai)粗糙、堅硬，內(nei)袋勿(wu)裝硬物(wu)或插筆(bi)等，以免局部摩擦起球；在(zai)外穿(chuan)(chuan)時，袖子(zi)與桌面、袖子(zi)與沙(sha)發扶手、背部與沙(sha)發等不(bu)要長(chang)時間摩擦。穿(chuan)(chuan)著時間不(bu)宜太(tai)長(chang)，要注意間歇(xie)、交替(ti)穿(chuan)(chuan)著，使(shi)其恢復彈力，以免纖(xian)維(wei)疲勞(lao)損傷。
羊(yang)絨衫(shan)出現起(qi)球(qiu)現象之后(hou)，切忌用手生拉(la)硬(ying)扯(che)，正確的(de)方法(fa)是在洗滌后(hou)用剪刀(dao)將起(qi)的(de)絨球(qiu)輕輕地剪下，在經過幾次洗滌之后(hou)，隨著(zhu)一些松(song)散的(de)纖維脫落(luo)，羊(yang)絨衫(shan)的(de)起(qi)球(qiu)現象是會逐漸消失的(de)。
二、羊(yang)絨(rong)衫起球的評(ping)定
羊絨(rong)(rong)衫的(de)起(qi)球(qiu)測定(ding)方法(fa)主要采取GB/T 4802.3—2008《織(zhi)物起(qi)毛起(qi)球(qiu)性能的(de)測定(ding)第3部分起(qi)球(qiu)箱法(fa)》。產(chan)品(pin)(pin)標準(zhun)有(you)FZ/T 73018—2012 《毛針(zhen)織(zhi)品(pin)(pin)》和(he)FZ/T 73009—2009《羊絨(rong)(rong)針(zhen)織(zhi)品(pin)(pin)》，具體的(de)評定(ding)等級見表
表1羊絨衫(shan)起球(qiu)評定(ding)指標(biao)
注(zhu)：低于二(er)等品的為(wei)等外品。
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