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對GB/T4802.1-2008《紡織品織物起毛起球性能的測定第1 部分：圓軌跡法》的研究
時間：19-06-25 09:14
織(zhi)物在(zai)(zai)(zai)穿(chuan)著過程中由于其內部(bu)(纖維種類、織(zhi)物結構、后整理等(deng))和(he)(he)外部(bu)(摩擦、勾絲(si)等(deng))原因,容易產生起(qi)(qi)毛(mao)起(qi)(qi)球(qiu)(qiu)的(de)(de)不(bu)良現象(xiang),這(zhe)嚴重影(ying)響了(le)紡(fang)織(zhi)服(fu)(fu)(fu)裝的(de)(de)服(fu)(fu)(fu)用(yong)(yong)性能和(he)(he)美觀(guan)性能。我國(guo)現行的(de)(de)紡(fang)織(zhi)服(fu)(fu)(fu)裝起(qi)(qi)毛(mao)起(qi)(qi)球(qiu)(qiu)測試(shi)方法(fa)(fa)目前有4種：圓軌(gui)跡法(fa)(fa)、改型馬(ma)丁代爾法(fa)(fa)、起(qi)(qi)球(qiu)(qiu)箱法(fa)(fa)和(he)(he)隨即(ji)翻滾法(fa)(fa),對應方法(fa)(fa)標準(zhun)分(fen)別(bie)為 GBT4802.1—-2008、GBT4802.2—2008、GB/T4802.3—2008和(he)(he) GBT4802.4——2009。據檢測機構統計,這(zhe)幾種測試(shi)方法(fa)(fa)中圓軌(gui)跡起(qi)(qi)毛(mao)起(qi)(qi)球(qiu)(qiu)法(fa)(fa)使(shi)(shi)用(yong)(yong)較為頻繁。在(zai)(zai)(zai)所(suo)有測試(shi)方法(fa)(fa)中使(shi)(shi)用(yong)(yong)占(zhan)比80%。在(zai)(zai)(zai)《針(zhen)(zhen)織(zhi)運動服(fu)(fu)(fu)》《針(zhen)(zhen)織(zhi)休閑服(fu)(fu)(fu)》《單、夾服(fu)(fu)(fu)裝》《男西服(fu)(fu)(fu)》《針(zhen)(zhen)織(zhi)T恤衫》等(deng)產品(pin)標準(zhun)中起(qi)(qi)毛(mao)起(qi)(qi)球(qiu)(qiu)測試(shi)標準(zhun)均采用(yong)(yong)圓軌(gui)跡法(fa)(fa)。由此(ci)可(ke)見,圓軌(gui)跡法(fa)(fa)起(qi)(qi)毛(mao)起(qi)(qi)球(qiu)(qiu)試(shi)驗標準(zhun)的(de)(de)系統、規(gui)范和(he)(he)完整對織(zhi)物起(qi)(qi)毛(mao)起(qi)(qi)球(qiu)(qiu)性能評價的(de)(de)準(zhun)確性至關重要。本文對現行 GBT4802.1-2008 圓軌(gui)跡法(fa)(fa)起(qi)(qi)毛(mao)起(qi)(qi)球(qiu)(qiu)檢測標準(zhun)中織(zhi)物磨料(liao)、泡沫塑料(liao)墊片、尼(ni)龍(long)刷(shua)等(deng)試(shi)驗材料(liao)存在(zai)(zai)(zai)的(de)(de)問題和(he)(he)不(bu)足進(jin)行了(le)分(fen)析和(he)(he)研究,并提出(chu)一些意見和(he)(he)建議。
1、起毛起球機理
在(zai)我們日常生活中,紡織(zhi)(zhi)品(pin)(pin)經常穿、用(yong)(yong)和(he)洗滌.持續遭到(dao)外界(jie)和(he)本(ben)身(shen)的(de)摩擦(ca)力和(he)其他作用(yong)(yong)力,其表(biao)(biao)層的(de)纖維逐漸(jian)被(bei)拉(la)出而(er)凸出顯(xian)露,在(zai)紡織(zhi)(zhi)品(pin)(pin)表(biao)(biao)面呈(cheng)現很多(duo)碎小絨毛(mao)，這(zhe)個(ge)過程(cheng)(cheng)為“起(qi)毛(mao)”：在(zai)不(bu)斷使用(yong)(yong)過程(cheng)(cheng)中絨毛(mao)未能從紡織(zhi)(zhi)品(pin)(pin)表(biao)(biao)面隨即(ji)脫(tuo)離,而(er)彼此纏繞在(zai)一(yi)起(qi),形(xing)成許多(duo)致(zhi)密的(de)球(qiu)形(xing)小粒,這(zhe)個(ge)過程(cheng)(cheng)為“起(qi)球(qiu)”。圓(yuan)軌跡法試(shi)(shi)(shi)驗(yan)(yan)采(cai)用(yong)(yong)尼(ni)龍刷和(he)織(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)磨(mo)(mo)料試(shi)(shi)(shi)驗(yan)(yan)材(cai)(cai)料抑(yi)或只用(yong)(yong)織(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)磨(mo)(mo)料。按照規定方法和(he)測試(shi)(shi)(shi)參(can)數,使試(shi)(shi)(shi)驗(yan)(yan)樣品(pin)(pin)摩擦(ca)發生起(qi)毛(mao)起(qi)球(qiu),再在(zai)評(ping)級箱中定的(de)光源照射條件(jian)下,對(dui)織(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)起(qi)毛(mao)起(qi)球(qiu)情況做視覺(jue)描述評(ping)級。作為主要試(shi)(shi)(shi)驗(yan)(yan)材(cai)(cai)料的(de)織(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)磨(mo)(mo)料，泡沫塑料墊片(pian)和(he)尼(ni)龍刷對(dui)織(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)起(qi)毛(mao)起(qi)球(qiu)評(ping)定級數要重大影響(xiang)。
2、影響因素
2.1 織物磨料
標準(zhun)中(zhong)對(dui)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)磨料(liao)的(de)(de)規(gui)定(ding)(ding)為(wei)：材質為(wei)2201全毛(mao)(mao)華(hua)達(da)呢,織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)組(zu)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)為(wei)兩上兩下(xia)右(you)斜紋線密(mi)度(du)為(wei)19.6tex×2，捻度(du)為(wei) Z625-S700，密(mi)度(du)為(wei) 445根/10cm×244根/l0cm，單位面積(ji)質量為(wei) 305g/m2。附錄A中(zhong)關于(yu)磨料(liao)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)的(de)(de)更換(huan)規(gui)定(ding)(ding)為(wei)：因長時(shi)間試驗(yan)(yan)會對(dui)磨料(liao)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)造(zao)成磨損,為(wei)避(bi)免這(zhe)(zhe)種情況(kuang)影響試樣起毛(mao)(mao)起球(qiu)程度(du)的(de)(de)正確(que)判定(ding)(ding).作為(wei)磨料(liao)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)的(de)(de)2201華(hua)達(da)呢應(ying)定(ding)(ding)期進行校驗(yan)(yan),新(xin)(xin)的(de)(de)磨料(liao)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)經(jing)過(guo)預(yu)(yu)磨后(hou)方可(ke)(ke)試驗(yan)(yan)：如(ru)果同一織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)采用新(xin)(xin)舊華(hua)達(da)呢磨料(liao)試驗(yan)(yan)所得(de)起毛(mao)(mao)起球(qiu)級(ji)數(shu)相差(cha)達(da)到(dao)半級(ji)以(yi)(yi)上,則應(ying)及時(shi)更換(huan)新(xin)(xin)的(de)(de)磨料(liao)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)。但(dan)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)磨料(liao)在(zai)用于(yu)試驗(yan)(yan)前要經(jing)過(guo)怎樣具體參(can)(can)數(shu)的(de)(de)預(yu)(yu)磨才能正式使用未(wei)(wei)點明：不同類(lei)型(xing)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)起毛(mao)(mao)起球(qiu)等級(ji)也相差(cha)很多,新(xin)(xin)舊華(hua)達(da)呢磨料(liao)級(ji)數(shu)相差(cha)半級(ji)以(yi)(yi)上,具體以(yi)(yi)哪種標準(zhun)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)為(wei)參(can)(can)考(kao)、選取哪種試驗(yan)(yan)參(can)(can)數(shu),也未(wei)(wei)清晰規(gui)定(ding)(ding)。在(zai)JF(紡織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi))031—2013《織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)起毛(mao)(mao)起球(qiu)儀(圓軌(gui)跡法)校準(zhun)規(gui)范(fan)》中(zhong)對(dui)于(yu)儀器(qi)的(de)(de)校準(zhun)項目和校準(zhun)方法中(zhong)也未(wei)(wei)提到(dao)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)磨料(liao)的(de)(de)檢查。這(zhe)(zhe)些(xie)漏洞可(ke)(ke)能會對(dui)實驗(yan)(yan)室起球(qiu)級(ji)數(shu)評定(ding)(ding)準(zhun)確(que)性產(chan)生影響。
建議(yi)標準中補充(chong)對磨(mo)料織物(wu)的(de)預磨(mo)參(can)數(shu)規定(ding),如用什么標準類型織物(wu)在(zai)多少壓力條(tiao)件(jian)下預磨(mo)多少次：補充(chong)對更換舊織物(wu)磨(mo)料的(de)起球評價標準參(can)考(kao)織物(wu)的(de)規定(ding),統一標準物(wu)質和(he)試驗(yan)參(can)數(shu)。
2.2 泡沫塑(su)料墊片(pian)
標準中對泡沫(mo)塑料(liao)墊(dian)(dian)片的規(gui)定為：墊(dian)(dian)片直徑、厚度、單位面積質量分別約(yue)為 105mm、8mm、270g/m2。只模(mo)糊規(gui)定了各參數大(da)約(yue)值，未詳(xiang)細(xi)規(gui)定其上(shang)下允差,這使得各檢測機構試(shi)驗用泡沫(mo)塑料(liao)墊(dian)(dian)片密度、硬度、厚度等不(bu)統一，從而(er)影響試(shi)驗結(jie)果精準性。
蘇丹霞研(yan)究(jiu)了(le)(le)泡沫塑料墊(dian)(dian)片的(de)(de)厚(hou)度(du)(du)和(he)硬(ying)(ying)(ying)度(du)(du)對(dui)織(zhi)物起(qi)(qi)毛起(qi)(qi)球結果(guo)(guo)的(de)(de)影(ying)響(xiang)，結果(guo)(guo)表明同一(yi)硬(ying)(ying)(ying)度(du)(du)條件下，不(bu)(bu)同厚(hou)度(du)(du)的(de)(de)塑料墊(dian)(dian)片使得織(zhi)物起(qi)(qi)球等級可相差(cha)一(yi)級；同一(yi)厚(hou)度(du)(du)條件下，不(bu)(bu)同硬(ying)(ying)(ying)度(du)(du)的(de)(de)塑料墊(dian)(dian)片制(zhi)得織(zhi)物起(qi)(qi)球等級可相差(cha)半級。董(dong)躍研(yan)究(jiu)了(le)(le)泡沫塑料墊(dian)(dian)片的(de)(de)表觀密度(du)(du)對(dui)織(zhi)物起(qi)(qi)毛起(qi)(qi)球結果(guo)(guo)的(de)(de)影(ying)響(xiang)，結果(guo)(guo)表明不(bu)(bu)同表觀密度(du)(du)的(de)(de)塑料墊(dian)(dian)片對(dui)化學短纖混紡織(zhi)物起(qi)(qi)球等級產生(sheng)較大(da)影(ying)響(xiang)，可使其起(qi)(qi)球等級相差(cha)一(yi)級。
由此(ci)可見,泡沫塑料(liao)墊片約定寬松的參數會對(dui)試驗結果產生較大影響,建(jian)議(yi)制定嚴格的參數設置,詳細規定其單(dan)位面(mian)積(ji)質量(liang)，厚度的上(shang)下(xia)允差范圍(wei)和硬(ying)度大小。
2.3 尼龍刷
標準中對尼(ni)(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)(long)(long)(long)刷(shua)(shua)(shua)(shua)的(de)(de)規定(ding)為(wei)：尼(ni)(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)(long)(long)(long)刷(shua)(shua)(shua)(shua)中每孔(kong)(kong)中植尼(ni)(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)(long)(long)(long)絲(si)(si)150根(gen),孔(kong)(kong)徑(jing)4.5mm,每孔(kong)(kong)間距7mm,每根(gen)尼(ni)(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)(long)(long)(long)絲(si)(si)直(zhi)徑(jing)0.3mm；所用(yong)尼(ni)(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)(long)(long)(long)絲(si)(si)的(de)(de)剛性(xing)大(da)小(xiao)要均(jun)勻一(yi)(yi)致：尼(ni)(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)(long)(long)(long)刷(shua)(shua)(shua)(shua)刷(shua)(shua)(shua)(shua)面要求平(ping)整，在同一(yi)(yi)水平(ping)面上(shang)；尼(ni)(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)(long)(long)(long)絲(si)(si)的(de)(de)有效高度可通過調(diao)節(jie)(jie)板上(shang)下(xia)調(diao)節(jie)(jie)，從而控制(zhi)(zhi)尼(ni)(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)(long)(long)(long)刷(shua)(shua)(shua)(shua)的(de)(de)起毛(mao)效果。另外(wai)附錄A中增(zeng)加(jia)了對尼(ni)(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)(long)(long)(long)刷(shua)(shua)(shua)(shua)調(diao)節(jie)(jie)的(de)(de)描寫。作為(wei)對織(zhi)物起毛(mao)起主要作用(yong)的(de)(de)尼(ni)(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)(long)(long)(long)刷(shua)(shua)(shua)(shua),標準中對其的(de)(de)規定(ding)太籠統(tong),如尼(ni)(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)(long)(long)(long)刷(shua)(shua)(shua)(shua)制(zhi)(zhi)備材(cai)料(liao)尼(ni)(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)(long)(long)(long)絲(si)(si)的(de)(de)剛性(xing)大(da)小(xiao)、新尼(ni)(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)(long)(long)(long)刷(shua)(shua)(shua)(shua)的(de)(de)預(yu)磨參數、試(shi)驗用(yong)尼(ni)(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)(long)(long)(long)刷(shua)(shua)(shua)(shua)的(de)(de)高度范圍等(deng),這些因素都對織(zhi)物起毛(mao)起球性(xing)能產(chan)生很大(da)影響。
尼(ni)龍(long)(long)(long)絲(si)(si)(si)剛(gang)性(xing)(xing)大小(xiao)對(dui)織(zhi)物(wu)(wu)的(de)起(qi)毛起(qi)球(qiu)(qiu)(qiu)性(xing)(xing)能具有決定性(xing)(xing)影響。剛(gang)性(xing)(xing)較(jiao)(jiao)大的(de)尼(ni)龍(long)(long)(long)絲(si)(si)(si)使得尼(ni)龍(long)(long)(long)刷(shua)(shua)對(dui)織(zhi)物(wu)(wu)產生較(jiao)(jiao)大作用力(li)(li),從(cong)而使織(zhi)物(wu)(wu)起(qi)球(qiu)(qiu)(qiu)級數較(jiao)(jiao)低(di)：而剛(gang)性(xing)(xing)較(jiao)(jiao)小(xiao)的(de)尼(ni)龍(long)(long)(long)絲(si)(si)(si)使得尼(ni)龍(long)(long)(long)刷(shua)(shua)對(dui)織(zhi)物(wu)(wu)產生較(jiao)(jiao)小(xiao)作用力(li)(li),從(cong)而使織(zhi)物(wu)(wu)起(qi)球(qiu)(qiu)(qiu)級數較(jiao)(jiao)高。標準中對(dui)尼(ni)龍(long)(long)(long)絲(si)(si)(si)的(de)只提到尼(ni)龍(long)(long)(long)絲(si)(si)(si)的(de)剛(gang)性(xing)(xing)應均勻(yun)一(yi)致,而未詳細規定尼(ni)龍(long)(long)(long)絲(si)(si)(si)剛(gang)性(xing)(xing)值大小(xiao)。目前(qian)市場上銷售的(de)圓(yuan)軌跡起(qi)毛起(qi)球(qiu)(qiu)(qiu)試(shi)驗儀所配(pei)的(de)尼(ni)龍(long)(long)(long)刷(shua)(shua)來(lai)自不(bu)同的(de)加工廠家(jia)。全(quan)國各實驗室所用的(de)設備型(xing)號。廠家(jia)也不(bu)盡相同,尼(ni)龍(long)(long)(long)刷(shua)(shua)剛(gang)性(xing)(xing)值不(bu)統一(yi)，這(zhe)對(dui)試(shi)驗結果的(de)精準性(xing)(xing)和一(yi)致性(xing)(xing)造成嚴(yan)重影響。
剛出(chu)廠(chang)的新(xin)(xin)尼龍(long)刷(shua)(shua)由于尼龍(long)絲頭端形態不一致(zhi),有尖(jian)銳端或凹(ao)陷(xian)不平(ping)端,對織物起(qi)毛(mao)起(qi)球(qiu)效(xiao)果的正確評估會產生(sheng)不利(li)影響,所以(yi)正式(shi)試驗前應進(jin)行(xing)預(yu)(yu)磨(mo)(mo)(mo)。而附錄A中對預(yu)(yu)磨(mo)(mo)(mo)的規定為(wei)：新(xin)(xin)尼龍(long)刷(shua)(shua)正式(shi)試驗前應進(jin)行(xing)一定次數的預(yu)(yu)磨(mo)(mo)(mo)并用參(can)照(zhao)織物校核。未(wei)詳細說明新(xin)(xin)尼龍(long)刷(shua)(shua)具體預(yu)(yu)磨(mo)(mo)(mo)參(can)數,如預(yu)(yu)磨(mo)(mo)(mo)材料(liao)、預(yu)(yu)磨(mo)(mo)(mo)載荷預(yu)(yu)磨(mo)(mo)(mo)次數等。也未(wei)規定具體用哪種參(can)照(zhao)織物校核,預(yu)(yu)磨(mo)(mo)(mo)后參(can)照(zhao)織物起(qi)毛(mao)起(qi)球(qiu)效(xiao)果達到幾級。
尼(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)刷(shua)試驗(yan)有(you)(you)效高(gao)(gao)度(du)(du)對織(zhi)物(wu)起(qi)毛起(qi)球(qiu)效果也(ye)產生影響。有(you)(you)效高(gao)(gao)度(du)(du)高(gao)(gao)時(shi),尼(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)絲(si)(si)(si)屈曲程度(du)(du)大(da),尼(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)絲(si)(si)(si)束(shu)(shu)較(jiao)分散(san),相對運動時(shi)尼(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)絲(si)(si)(si)束(shu)(shu)與(yu)織(zhi)物(wu)相互(hu)(hu)作用力小,使得織(zhi)物(wu)起(qi)球(qiu)級數較(jiao)高(gao)(gao):有(you)(you)效高(gao)(gao)度(du)(du)低時(shi),尼(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)絲(si)(si)(si)屈曲程度(du)(du)小,尼(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)絲(si)(si)(si)束(shu)(shu)較(jiao)聚(ju)集,相對運動時(shi)尼(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)絲(si)(si)(si)束(shu)(shu)與(yu)織(zhi)物(wu)相互(hu)(hu)作用力大(da)，使得織(zhi)物(wu)起(qi)球(qiu)級數較(jiao)低。標準(zhun)中只提到尼(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)絲(si)(si)(si)高(gao)(gao)度(du)(du)應一(yi)致,可(ke)調節其有(you)(you)效高(gao)(gao)度(du)(du),但有(you)(you)效高(gao)(gao)度(du)(du)適(shi)宜范(fan)圍值未(wei)作規定(ding),這亟須進一(yi)步統(tong)一(yi)規定(ding)。
3、結論
為確保圓軌跡起毛起球測(ce)試方法的嚴謹性(xing)和精(jing)準(zhun)性(xing)建議修(xiu)訂 GBT4802.1-2008 標準(zhun)時增加以下內(nei)容
(1)補充對(dui)磨料織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)的(de)預(yu)(yu)磨參(can)數(織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)種類、預(yu)(yu)磨壓力、預(yu)(yu)磨次數)規定和對(dui)更換舊(jiu)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)磨料的(de)起球評(ping)價標準參(can)考織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)的(de)規定,統一標準物(wu)(wu)質(zhi)和試驗參(can)數。
(2)詳細規定泡沫塑料墊片單位面積質量、厚度的上下允差范圍(wei)和硬度大小。
(3)對尼(ni)龍刷的制(zhi)備材(cai)料(liao)尼(ni)龍絲剛性值(zhi)統一規定(ding)(ding)；補充對新尼(ni)龍刷預磨參數(預磨材(cai)料(liao)、預磨載荷、預磨次數)的規定(ding)(ding),明確校核參照織物:對尼(ni)龍刷試驗有效高度加(jia)以規定(ding)(ding)。