?
更多在線咨詢
旺旺客服一：
旺旺客服二：
QQ客服一：
QQ客服二：
當前位置：
對GB/T4802.1-2008《紡織品織物起毛起球性能的測定第1 部分：圓軌跡法》的研究
時間：19-06-25 09:14
織(zhi)物(wu)在(zai)穿著(zhu)過程中(zhong)由(you)于其內部(纖(xian)維種(zhong)類、織(zhi)物(wu)結構(gou)、后(hou)整理等(deng))和(he)外部(摩擦、勾絲等(deng))原因,容(rong)易產生起(qi)毛(mao)起(qi)球(qiu)(qiu)的(de)(de)不(bu)良現(xian)象,這嚴重(zhong)影響了紡(fang)織(zhi)服(fu)(fu)裝(zhuang)(zhuang)的(de)(de)服(fu)(fu)用性(xing)(xing)能(neng)和(he)美(mei)觀性(xing)(xing)能(neng)。我國現(xian)行(xing)的(de)(de)紡(fang)織(zhi)服(fu)(fu)裝(zhuang)(zhuang)起(qi)毛(mao)起(qi)球(qiu)(qiu)測(ce)(ce)試(shi)(shi)方法(fa)(fa)(fa)(fa)目前有(you)4種(zhong)：圓軌(gui)跡(ji)法(fa)(fa)(fa)(fa)、改型馬丁代爾法(fa)(fa)(fa)(fa)、起(qi)球(qiu)(qiu)箱法(fa)(fa)(fa)(fa)和(he)隨即翻(fan)滾法(fa)(fa)(fa)(fa),對應方法(fa)(fa)(fa)(fa)標準分別為 GBT4802.1—-2008、GBT4802.2—2008、GB/T4802.3—2008和(he) GBT4802.4——2009。據(ju)檢(jian)測(ce)(ce)機構(gou)統計(ji),這幾(ji)種(zhong)測(ce)(ce)試(shi)(shi)方法(fa)(fa)(fa)(fa)中(zhong)圓軌(gui)跡(ji)起(qi)毛(mao)起(qi)球(qiu)(qiu)法(fa)(fa)(fa)(fa)使(shi)用較為頻繁(fan)。在(zai)所有(you)測(ce)(ce)試(shi)(shi)方法(fa)(fa)(fa)(fa)中(zhong)使(shi)用占比80%。在(zai)《針織(zhi)運動服(fu)(fu)》《針織(zhi)休閑服(fu)(fu)》《單、夾服(fu)(fu)裝(zhuang)(zhuang)》《男西服(fu)(fu)》《針織(zhi)T恤衫》等(deng)產品(pin)標準中(zhong)起(qi)毛(mao)起(qi)球(qiu)(qiu)測(ce)(ce)試(shi)(shi)標準均采(cai)用圓軌(gui)跡(ji)法(fa)(fa)(fa)(fa)。由(you)此可見(jian)(jian),圓軌(gui)跡(ji)法(fa)(fa)(fa)(fa)起(qi)毛(mao)起(qi)球(qiu)(qiu)試(shi)(shi)驗標準的(de)(de)系統、規范和(he)完整對織(zhi)物(wu)起(qi)毛(mao)起(qi)球(qiu)(qiu)性(xing)(xing)能(neng)評價(jia)的(de)(de)準確性(xing)(xing)至關重(zhong)要(yao)。本文對現(xian)行(xing) GBT4802.1-2008 圓軌(gui)跡(ji)法(fa)(fa)(fa)(fa)起(qi)毛(mao)起(qi)球(qiu)(qiu)檢(jian)測(ce)(ce)標準中(zhong)織(zhi)物(wu)磨料(liao)、泡沫塑料(liao)墊(dian)片(pian)、尼龍刷等(deng)試(shi)(shi)驗材料(liao)存在(zai)的(de)(de)問題和(he)不(bu)足進行(xing)了分析(xi)和(he)研究,并提(ti)出一些意見(jian)(jian)和(he)建議。
1、起毛起球機理
在我們日常生(sheng)活中,紡織品(pin)(pin)經(jing)常穿、用(yong)和洗滌.持續遭到外(wai)界和本身的(de)(de)摩擦(ca)力和其(qi)(qi)他作用(yong)力,其(qi)(qi)表(biao)(biao)層(ceng)的(de)(de)纖維逐漸(jian)被拉(la)出(chu)而凸出(chu)顯露,在紡織品(pin)(pin)表(biao)(biao)面(mian)呈(cheng)現很多(duo)碎(sui)小(xiao)(xiao)絨毛(mao)(mao)，這(zhe)個過程(cheng)為“起(qi)毛(mao)(mao)”：在不斷使用(yong)過程(cheng)中絨毛(mao)(mao)未能從紡織品(pin)(pin)表(biao)(biao)面(mian)隨即(ji)脫離,而彼此纏繞在一(yi)起(qi),形成許多(duo)致(zhi)密的(de)(de)球形小(xiao)(xiao)粒,這(zhe)個過程(cheng)為“起(qi)球”。圓軌跡法試驗采用(yong)尼龍(long)刷(shua)和織物(wu)(wu)磨料試驗材料抑或只用(yong)織物(wu)(wu)磨料。按照規定(ding)方法和測試參數(shu),使試驗樣品(pin)(pin)摩擦(ca)發生(sheng)起(qi)毛(mao)(mao)起(qi)球,再在評級(ji)箱(xiang)中定(ding)的(de)(de)光源照射條(tiao)件(jian)下,對織物(wu)(wu)起(qi)毛(mao)(mao)起(qi)球情況做(zuo)視覺描述評級(ji)。作為主要(yao)試驗材料的(de)(de)織物(wu)(wu)磨料，泡沫(mo)塑料墊片和尼龍(long)刷(shua)對織物(wu)(wu)起(qi)毛(mao)(mao)起(qi)球評定(ding)級(ji)數(shu)要(yao)重大影響(xiang)。
2、影響因(yin)素
2.1 織(zhi)物磨料
標(biao)(biao)準中(zhong)(zhong)對織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)(wu)(wu)磨(mo)料(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)的(de)(de)規定(ding)(ding)(ding)(ding)為(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)：材(cai)質(zhi)為(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)2201全(quan)毛華(hua)達呢(ni),織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)(wu)(wu)組織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)為(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)兩(liang)上(shang)兩(liang)下右(you)斜紋線密度(du)為(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)19.6tex×2，捻度(du)為(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei) Z625-S700，密度(du)為(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei) 445根(gen)/10cm×244根(gen)/l0cm，單位面積質(zhi)量(liang)為(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei) 305g/m2。附錄(lu)A中(zhong)(zhong)關于(yu)磨(mo)料(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)(wu)(wu)的(de)(de)更換(huan)規定(ding)(ding)(ding)(ding)為(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)：因長時間試(shi)(shi)驗會對磨(mo)料(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)(wu)(wu)造成磨(mo)損,為(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)避免(mian)這種(zhong)情況(kuang)影響試(shi)(shi)樣(yang)起(qi)(qi)毛起(qi)(qi)球(qiu)程度(du)的(de)(de)正(zheng)確(que)判定(ding)(ding)(ding)(ding).作為(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)磨(mo)料(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)(wu)(wu)的(de)(de)2201華(hua)達呢(ni)應(ying)(ying)定(ding)(ding)(ding)(ding)期進行校(xiao)(xiao)驗,新(xin)(xin)的(de)(de)磨(mo)料(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)(wu)(wu)經(jing)(jing)過預(yu)磨(mo)后方可(ke)試(shi)(shi)驗：如(ru)果(guo)同(tong)一織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)(wu)(wu)采用新(xin)(xin)舊華(hua)達呢(ni)磨(mo)料(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)試(shi)(shi)驗所(suo)得起(qi)(qi)毛起(qi)(qi)球(qiu)級數(shu)(shu)相差(cha)達到(dao)半(ban)級以(yi)上(shang),則(ze)應(ying)(ying)及時更換(huan)新(xin)(xin)的(de)(de)磨(mo)料(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)(wu)(wu)。但織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)(wu)(wu)磨(mo)料(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)在用于(yu)試(shi)(shi)驗前要(yao)經(jing)(jing)過怎(zen)樣(yang)具體參(can)數(shu)(shu)的(de)(de)預(yu)磨(mo)才能正(zheng)式使用未(wei)點明(ming)：不同(tong)類型(xing)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)(wu)(wu)起(qi)(qi)毛起(qi)(qi)球(qiu)等級也相差(cha)很多,新(xin)(xin)舊華(hua)達呢(ni)磨(mo)料(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)級數(shu)(shu)相差(cha)半(ban)級以(yi)上(shang),具體以(yi)哪(na)(na)種(zhong)標(biao)(biao)準織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)(wu)(wu)為(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)參(can)考(kao)、選取哪(na)(na)種(zhong)試(shi)(shi)驗參(can)數(shu)(shu),也未(wei)清晰規定(ding)(ding)(ding)(ding)。在JF(紡織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi))031—2013《織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)(wu)(wu)起(qi)(qi)毛起(qi)(qi)球(qiu)儀(圓軌(gui)跡法)校(xiao)(xiao)準規范》中(zhong)(zhong)對于(yu)儀器(qi)的(de)(de)校(xiao)(xiao)準項目和校(xiao)(xiao)準方法中(zhong)(zhong)也未(wei)提到(dao)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)(wu)(wu)(wu)磨(mo)料(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)(liao)的(de)(de)檢查。這些(xie)漏(lou)洞可(ke)能會對實驗室起(qi)(qi)球(qiu)級數(shu)(shu)評定(ding)(ding)(ding)(ding)準確(que)性產生影響。
建(jian)議(yi)標(biao)(biao)準中補充(chong)對磨料織物(wu)的預磨參數規(gui)定,如用什么標(biao)(biao)準類型織物(wu)在多少(shao)壓力條件下預磨多少(shao)次(ci)：補充(chong)對更換(huan)舊織物(wu)磨料的起球評價標(biao)(biao)準參考織物(wu)的規(gui)定,統一標(biao)(biao)準物(wu)質和試驗參數。
2.2 泡沫(mo)塑料墊片
標準(zhun)中對泡沫塑料墊片的規定為(wei)：墊片直徑、厚(hou)度、單位(wei)面(mian)積(ji)質量分別約(yue)為(wei) 105mm、8mm、270g/m2。只(zhi)模糊規定了各參(can)數(shu)大約(yue)值，未(wei)詳(xiang)細規定其上下允差,這(zhe)使得各檢(jian)測機(ji)構試驗用泡沫塑料墊片密度、硬度、厚(hou)度等不(bu)統一，從而影響試驗結(jie)果精(jing)準(zhun)性。
蘇丹(dan)霞(xia)研究了泡(pao)(pao)沫(mo)塑料(liao)墊片(pian)(pian)的(de)(de)厚度(du)(du)和硬(ying)度(du)(du)對(dui)織(zhi)物(wu)(wu)起(qi)毛起(qi)球(qiu)結(jie)果(guo)的(de)(de)影響(xiang)，結(jie)果(guo)表(biao)明(ming)同(tong)(tong)一(yi)硬(ying)度(du)(du)條(tiao)件下，不(bu)同(tong)(tong)厚度(du)(du)的(de)(de)塑料(liao)墊片(pian)(pian)使得織(zhi)物(wu)(wu)起(qi)球(qiu)等級(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)可相(xiang)差(cha)一(yi)級(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)；同(tong)(tong)一(yi)厚度(du)(du)條(tiao)件下，不(bu)同(tong)(tong)硬(ying)度(du)(du)的(de)(de)塑料(liao)墊片(pian)(pian)制得織(zhi)物(wu)(wu)起(qi)球(qiu)等級(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)可相(xiang)差(cha)半級(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)。董躍研究了泡(pao)(pao)沫(mo)塑料(liao)墊片(pian)(pian)的(de)(de)表(biao)觀密度(du)(du)對(dui)織(zhi)物(wu)(wu)起(qi)毛起(qi)球(qiu)結(jie)果(guo)的(de)(de)影響(xiang)，結(jie)果(guo)表(biao)明(ming)不(bu)同(tong)(tong)表(biao)觀密度(du)(du)的(de)(de)塑料(liao)墊片(pian)(pian)對(dui)化(hua)學短纖混紡織(zhi)物(wu)(wu)起(qi)球(qiu)等級(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)產生較(jiao)大影響(xiang)，可使其起(qi)球(qiu)等級(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)相(xiang)差(cha)一(yi)級(ji)(ji)(ji)(ji)。
由此可見,泡(pao)沫塑料墊片(pian)約定(ding)寬松的參數會對試驗(yan)結果產生較大(da)影響,建議制定(ding)嚴格(ge)的參數設置,詳(xiang)細規定(ding)其單位面(mian)積質(zhi)量，厚度的上(shang)下允(yun)差范(fan)圍和硬度大(da)小。
2.3 尼龍刷
標準中(zhong)對尼(ni)(ni)(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)刷(shua)(shua)(shua)的(de)(de)規(gui)定為：尼(ni)(ni)(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)刷(shua)(shua)(shua)中(zhong)每孔中(zhong)植尼(ni)(ni)(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)絲(si)150根,孔徑4.5mm,每孔間距7mm,每根尼(ni)(ni)(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)絲(si)直(zhi)徑0.3mm；所(suo)用尼(ni)(ni)(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)絲(si)的(de)(de)剛性大(da)小(xiao)要(yao)(yao)均勻一致：尼(ni)(ni)(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)刷(shua)(shua)(shua)刷(shua)(shua)(shua)面要(yao)(yao)求平整，在同一水平面上；尼(ni)(ni)(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)絲(si)的(de)(de)有效(xiao)高度(du)可通過調(diao)節(jie)板上下(xia)調(diao)節(jie)，從而(er)控制尼(ni)(ni)(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)刷(shua)(shua)(shua)的(de)(de)起(qi)(qi)毛效(xiao)果。另外附錄A中(zhong)增加(jia)了對尼(ni)(ni)(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)刷(shua)(shua)(shua)調(diao)節(jie)的(de)(de)描寫。作為對織(zhi)物起(qi)(qi)毛起(qi)(qi)主要(yao)(yao)作用的(de)(de)尼(ni)(ni)(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)刷(shua)(shua)(shua),標準中(zhong)對其的(de)(de)規(gui)定太籠統,如尼(ni)(ni)(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)刷(shua)(shua)(shua)制備(bei)材(cai)料尼(ni)(ni)(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)絲(si)的(de)(de)剛性大(da)小(xiao)、新尼(ni)(ni)(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)刷(shua)(shua)(shua)的(de)(de)預磨參數、試(shi)驗(yan)用尼(ni)(ni)(ni)(ni)龍(long)(long)刷(shua)(shua)(shua)的(de)(de)高度(du)范圍(wei)等,這(zhe)些(xie)因素都對織(zhi)物起(qi)(qi)毛起(qi)(qi)球(qiu)性能產生很大(da)影(ying)響。
尼(ni)(ni)(ni)龍絲剛(gang)性(xing)(xing)(xing)大(da)(da)小對(dui)(dui)織物(wu)的(de)(de)起(qi)毛起(qi)球性(xing)(xing)(xing)能(neng)具有決定性(xing)(xing)(xing)影響。剛(gang)性(xing)(xing)(xing)較(jiao)大(da)(da)的(de)(de)尼(ni)(ni)(ni)龍絲使得尼(ni)(ni)(ni)龍刷(shua)對(dui)(dui)織物(wu)產(chan)生較(jiao)大(da)(da)作(zuo)用(yong)(yong)力,從而(er)(er)(er)使織物(wu)起(qi)球級數較(jiao)低：而(er)(er)(er)剛(gang)性(xing)(xing)(xing)較(jiao)小的(de)(de)尼(ni)(ni)(ni)龍絲使得尼(ni)(ni)(ni)龍刷(shua)對(dui)(dui)織物(wu)產(chan)生較(jiao)小作(zuo)用(yong)(yong)力,從而(er)(er)(er)使織物(wu)起(qi)球級數較(jiao)高(gao)。標(biao)準(zhun)中對(dui)(dui)尼(ni)(ni)(ni)龍絲的(de)(de)只提到(dao)尼(ni)(ni)(ni)龍絲的(de)(de)剛(gang)性(xing)(xing)(xing)應均勻一致(zhi),而(er)(er)(er)未詳細規定尼(ni)(ni)(ni)龍絲剛(gang)性(xing)(xing)(xing)值大(da)(da)小。目前市(shi)場(chang)上(shang)銷售的(de)(de)圓軌跡(ji)起(qi)毛起(qi)球試(shi)驗儀所(suo)配的(de)(de)尼(ni)(ni)(ni)龍刷(shua)來自不(bu)同(tong)的(de)(de)加工廠(chang)家。全(quan)國各實驗室所(suo)用(yong)(yong)的(de)(de)設(she)備(bei)型號(hao)。廠(chang)家也不(bu)盡相同(tong),尼(ni)(ni)(ni)龍刷(shua)剛(gang)性(xing)(xing)(xing)值不(bu)統一，這對(dui)(dui)試(shi)驗結果的(de)(de)精準(zhun)性(xing)(xing)(xing)和一致(zhi)性(xing)(xing)(xing)造成嚴重影響。
剛出廠的(de)(de)新尼(ni)龍刷由(you)于尼(ni)龍絲頭端(duan)形態(tai)不一致,有尖銳端(duan)或凹陷不平端(duan),對(dui)織(zhi)物(wu)起毛起球效(xiao)果的(de)(de)正(zheng)確評估會產生不利影響(xiang),所以正(zheng)式試(shi)驗前應(ying)(ying)進行預(yu)磨(mo)(mo)。而附錄(lu)A中(zhong)對(dui)預(yu)磨(mo)(mo)的(de)(de)規定為：新尼(ni)龍刷正(zheng)式試(shi)驗前應(ying)(ying)進行一定次數的(de)(de)預(yu)磨(mo)(mo)并用參(can)照(zhao)織(zhi)物(wu)校核(he)。未詳(xiang)細說明新尼(ni)龍刷具體預(yu)磨(mo)(mo)參(can)數,如(ru)預(yu)磨(mo)(mo)材(cai)料、預(yu)磨(mo)(mo)載荷預(yu)磨(mo)(mo)次數等(deng)。也未規定具體用哪種(zhong)參(can)照(zhao)織(zhi)物(wu)校核(he),預(yu)磨(mo)(mo)后參(can)照(zhao)織(zhi)物(wu)起毛起球效(xiao)果達到(dao)幾級。
尼龍(long)(long)(long)刷試驗有效(xiao)(xiao)高(gao)度(du)(du)對織物(wu)(wu)起(qi)(qi)毛起(qi)(qi)球效(xiao)(xiao)果(guo)也產生影響。有效(xiao)(xiao)高(gao)度(du)(du)高(gao)時(shi),尼龍(long)(long)(long)絲(si)(si)(si)屈(qu)曲程(cheng)(cheng)度(du)(du)大,尼龍(long)(long)(long)絲(si)(si)(si)束(shu)較分散,相(xiang)對運動時(shi)尼龍(long)(long)(long)絲(si)(si)(si)束(shu)與(yu)織物(wu)(wu)相(xiang)互(hu)作用力小(xiao),使得(de)織物(wu)(wu)起(qi)(qi)球級數較高(gao):有效(xiao)(xiao)高(gao)度(du)(du)低時(shi),尼龍(long)(long)(long)絲(si)(si)(si)屈(qu)曲程(cheng)(cheng)度(du)(du)小(xiao),尼龍(long)(long)(long)絲(si)(si)(si)束(shu)較聚集,相(xiang)對運動時(shi)尼龍(long)(long)(long)絲(si)(si)(si)束(shu)與(yu)織物(wu)(wu)相(xiang)互(hu)作用力大，使得(de)織物(wu)(wu)起(qi)(qi)球級數較低。標(biao)準中只提到尼龍(long)(long)(long)絲(si)(si)(si)高(gao)度(du)(du)應一致(zhi),可調節(jie)其有效(xiao)(xiao)高(gao)度(du)(du),但有效(xiao)(xiao)高(gao)度(du)(du)適宜(yi)范(fan)圍值(zhi)未(wei)作規(gui)定,這亟須進一步(bu)統一規(gui)定。
3、結論
為(wei)確保圓軌(gui)跡起毛起球測試(shi)方法的嚴謹性(xing)和精準(zhun)性(xing)建議修訂(ding) GBT4802.1-2008 標(biao)準(zhun)時(shi)增加以(yi)下內容
(1)補充對磨(mo)料織物(wu)(wu)的預(yu)(yu)磨(mo)參數(織物(wu)(wu)種(zhong)類、預(yu)(yu)磨(mo)壓力(li)、預(yu)(yu)磨(mo)次(ci)數)規(gui)定和對更(geng)換舊織物(wu)(wu)磨(mo)料的起球評價標準參考織物(wu)(wu)的規(gui)定,統一標準物(wu)(wu)質和試驗參數。
(2)詳(xiang)細規定(ding)泡(pao)沫(mo)塑料墊(dian)片(pian)單位面積質量、厚(hou)度的上(shang)下允差范圍和硬度大小。
(3)對尼(ni)龍(long)(long)刷(shua)的制(zhi)備(bei)材料(liao)尼(ni)龍(long)(long)絲剛性值統(tong)一(yi)規定；補(bu)充對新尼(ni)龍(long)(long)刷(shua)預(yu)磨參數(預(yu)磨材料(liao)、預(yu)磨載(zai)荷、預(yu)磨次數)的規定,明確(que)校核參照織物:對尼(ni)龍(long)(long)刷(shua)試(shi)驗有效(xiao)高度加以規定。