?
表1羊絨衫起球評定指標(biao)
更多在線咨詢
旺旺客服一：
旺旺客服二：
QQ客服一：
QQ客服二：
當前位置：
羊絨衫起球的原因分析及評定指標
時間：19-06-25 08:34
羊(yang)(yang)絨衫以(yi)其(qi)非凡的(de)(de)風格(ge)和(he)高雅的(de)(de)氣質(zhi)，深受廣大消費(fei)(fei)者的(de)(de)喜(xi)愛(ai)，但(dan)羊(yang)(yang)絨衫起球(qiu)問題(ti)普遍，嚴重困擾了消費(fei)(fei)者的(de)(de)使用。羊(yang)(yang)絨衫起球(qiu)與(yu)羊(yang)(yang)絨纖維特點、面料結構和(he)消費(fei)(fei)者穿著習慣都有(you)關系。國(guo)家(jia)標準(zhun)規定，只要(yao)羊(yang)(yang)絨衫起球(qiu)等級(ji)不(bu)超過允許(xu)的(de)(de)范圍就(jiu)是(shi)合格(ge)產品(pin)，即使質(zhi)量(liang)最(zui)上乘的(de)(de)羊(yang)(yang)絨衫，在剛開始穿著時(shi)也會在的(de)(de)適度的(de)(de)范圍內有(you)輕微(wei)的(de)(de)起球(qiu)現象(xiang)。本文(wen)為您做詳細(xi)分析。
一、羊絨衫起球的(de)原因
1）纖維(wei)紗線(xian)
羊(yang)(yang)(yang)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)纖(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)的(de)(de)(de)細度、長度、卷曲(qu)是重要的(de)(de)(de)工(gong)藝特征(zheng)，羊(yang)(yang)(yang)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)與羊(yang)(yang)(yang)毛相(xiang)比，首先(xian)是細度小、長度短、卷曲(qu)數少(shao)，這樣(yang)纖(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)在(zai)紗中抱合力(li)(li)小，外(wai)露毛羽多，再加上纖(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)滑糯在(zai)外(wai)力(li)(li)的(de)(de)(de)作(zuo)用下從(cong)織物(wu)中滑移(yi)而產(chan)生(sheng)掉絨(rong)(rong)(rong)起(qi)球(qiu)。其次是其纖(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)的(de)(de)(de)縮(suo)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)性和磨擦系數均小，纖(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)間的(de)(de)(de)磨擦阻力(li)(li)減(jian)少(shao)，但(dan)因(yin)羊(yang)(yang)(yang)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)纖(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)的(de)(de)(de)鱗片結(jie)構，使(shi)得羊(yang)(yang)(yang)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)純紡或是與羊(yang)(yang)(yang)毛混紡的(de)(de)(de)織物(wu)，羊(yang)(yang)(yang)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)易從(cong)織物(wu)中滑移(yi)出來(lai)，當(dang)纖(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)的(de)(de)(de)集合體受到無(wu)定向性外(wai)力(li)(li)的(de)(de)(de)作(zuo)用，逆鱗片受力(li)(li)的(de)(de)(de)纖(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)容易不斷向根部移(yi)運，產(chan)生(sheng)掉絨(rong)(rong)(rong)，由(you)于鱗片之間的(de)(de)(de)棘鎖和纖(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)體的(de)(de)(de)彈性，纖(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)相(xiang)互交錯(cuo)纏結(jie)起(qi)球(qiu)，也引起(qi)了動物(wu)纖(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)所特有的(de)(de)(de)氈縮(suo)。
羊(yang)絨(rong)纖(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)的(de)導電(dian)(dian)能力差，衣服在穿著時，纖(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)間互(hu)相磨擦，造成(cheng)電(dian)(dian)荷(he)(he)在纖(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)聚(ju)集，產生靜電(dian)(dian)現象，介電(dian)(dian)系數高的(de)纖(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)帶(dai)正電(dian)(dian)荷(he)(he)，反之帶(dai)負電(dian)(dian)荷(he)(he)。如(ru)化學(xue)纖(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)與(yu)羊(yang)絨(rong)磨擦時，化學(xue)纖(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)帶(dai)負電(dian)(dian)荷(he)(he)，羊(yang)絨(rong)纖(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)帶(dai)正電(dian)(dian)荷(he)(he)。不相同電(dian)(dian)荷(he)(he)的(de)纖(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)之間相互(hu)吸引，易造成(cheng)織物掉絨(rong)起球，當(dang)天氣(qi)干燥時這種現象尤為嚴重(zhong)。
纖(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)的卷曲(qu)波形愈(yu)多(duo)，在(zai)(zai)加(jia)捻時，纖(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)越不(bu)容(rong)易(yi)(yi)伸展，在(zai)(zai)摩擦過程中纖(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)容(rong)易(yi)(yi)松動滑移(yi)，在(zai)(zai)紗(sha)線表(biao)(biao)面(mian)形成毛(mao)茸。為此(ci)，纖(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)卷曲(qu)性(xing)愈(yu)好(hao)，愈(yu)易(yi)(yi)起(qi)球(qiu)。纖(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)愈(yu)細，顯(xian)露在(zai)(zai)紗(sha)線表(biao)(biao)面(mian)的纖(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)頭端(duan)就多(duo)，纖(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)柔(rou)軟(ruan)性(xing)也愈(yu)好(hao)，因此(ci)細纖(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)比粗纖(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)易(yi)(yi)于(yu)(yu)糾纏起(qi)球(qiu)。而對于(yu)(yu)纖(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)長度(du)來講，較(jiao)短纖(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)比長纖(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)易(yi)(yi)于(yu)(yu)起(qi)毛(mao)起(qi)球(qiu)，因游離纖(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)較(jiao)多(duo)，且短纖(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)之間(jian)的摩擦力及抱合力均(jun)較(jiao)小，纖(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)易(yi)(yi)于(yu)(yu)滑到織物表(biao)(biao)面(mian)，也就容(rong)易(yi)(yi)產生(sheng)起(qi)球(qiu)現象。
紗(sha)(sha)(sha)線(xian)的(de)捻度(du)(du)和(he)表面光(guang)(guang)潔程度(du)(du)對起球也有較大影響，捻度(du)(du)高的(de)紗(sha)(sha)(sha)線(xian)，纖維間的(de)抱合緊密，紗(sha)(sha)(sha)線(xian)在(zai)受到(dao)摩擦時，纖維從(cong)紗(sha)(sha)(sha)線(xian)內(nei)滑移相對少，起球現象(xiang)減(jian)少；由于羊絨衫是柔(rou)軟性(xing)織(zhi)物，過高的(de)捻度(du)(du)會使織(zhi)物發硬，因此不能(neng)靠提高捻度(du)(du)來防(fang)止起球。紗(sha)(sha)(sha)線(xian)光(guang)(guang)潔度(du)(du)的(de)影響，紗(sha)(sha)(sha)線(xian)越(yue)光(guang)(guang)潔，表面毛茸(rong)則短而少，所(suo)以光(guang)(guang)潔紗(sha)(sha)(sha)線(xian)不易起球。
2）織(zhi)(zhi)物組織(zhi)(zhi)結(jie)構(gou)
織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物組織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)結構疏松(song)的(de)(de)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物比(bi)結構緊(jin)密(mi)的(de)(de)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物易(yi)起(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)毛(mao)(mao)起(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)球(qiu)(qiu)，結構緊(jin)密(mi)的(de)(de)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物與外界物體摩擦(ca)時，不(bu)易(yi)產(chan)生(sheng)毛(mao)(mao)茸(rong)，已(yi)經存在的(de)(de)毛(mao)(mao)茸(rong)，又由(you)于纖維(wei)之間(jian)的(de)(de)摩擦(ca)阻力(li)較大，而不(bu)易(yi)滑到織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物表面(mian)來(lai)，故(gu)可(ke)減輕(qing)起(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)毛(mao)(mao)起(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)球(qiu)(qiu)現象。高機號(hao)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物一般比(bi)較緊(jin)密(mi)，所以低機號(hao)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物比(bi)高機號(hao)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物易(yi)起(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)毛(mao)(mao)起(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)球(qiu)(qiu)。表面(mian)平整的(de)(de)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物不(bu)易(yi)起(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)毛(mao)(mao)起(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)球(qiu)(qiu)，表面(mian)凹凸(tu)不(bu)平的(de)(de)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物易(yi)起(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)毛(mao)(mao)起(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)球(qiu)(qiu)。
3）染整工(gong)藝的影響(xiang)
紗(sha)(sha)線(xian)或織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)經染色及整理(li)以后(hou)，對抗起(qi)球性(xing)將(jiang)產生(sheng)較大(da)影(ying)響(xiang)，這(zhe)與染料、助劑、染整工藝條件有關，以絞紗(sha)(sha)染色的(de)(de)紗(sha)(sha)線(xian)比用散(san)毛(mao)染色或毛(mao)條染色的(de)(de)紗(sha)(sha)線(xian)易(yi)起(qi)球；以成衫染色的(de)(de)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)比紗(sha)(sha)線(xian)染色所(suo)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)的(de)(de)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)易(yi)起(qi)球；織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)經過定型，特別(bie)是(shi)經樹脂整理(li)后(hou)，其(qi)抗起(qi)毛(mao)起(qi)球性(xing)將(jiang)大(da)大(da)增強。
4）穿著條件的影響(xiang)
起球(qiu)(qiu)現(xian)象(xiang)需(xu)要(yao)從紡織(zhi)品(pin)起球(qiu)(qiu)的(de)(de)機理說起。羊(yang)絨衫(shan)在穿著過(guo)程(cheng)中，由于外罩（如外衣(yi)）施加的(de)(de)摩擦等(deng)作用，紗(sha)線中較短(duan)(duan)的(de)(de)纖(xian)維(wei)(wei)的(de)(de)一端滑移出來(lai)，在織(zhi)物表面相互纏結成球(qiu)(qiu)。而(er)羊(yang)絨纖(xian)維(wei)(wei)比羊(yang)毛的(de)(de)纖(xian)維(wei)(wei)細(xi)而(er)短(duan)(duan)，加上一般(ban)的(de)(de)羊(yang)絨衫(shan)為粗梳產品(pin)，羊(yang)絨紗(sha)中的(de)(de)短(duan)(duan)纖(xian)維(wei)(wei)含量較高，更容(rong)易(yi)“呲”出來(lai)彼此纏結。
因此羊絨衫在(zai)內穿(chuan)時，與(yu)其(qi)配(pei)套(tao)的外(wai)衣里(li)子(zi)最(zui)好是光滑的，不能太(tai)粗糙、堅硬，內袋勿裝硬物或插筆(bi)等，以(yi)免(mian)局部摩擦起球；在(zai)外(wai)穿(chuan)時，袖子(zi)與(yu)桌面、袖子(zi)與(yu)沙發扶手、背部與(yu)沙發等不要長時間摩擦。穿(chuan)著時間不宜太(tai)長，要注意間歇(xie)、交替穿(chuan)著，使其(qi)恢復彈力，以(yi)免(mian)纖(xian)維疲勞損傷。
羊絨衫(shan)出現起球(qiu)(qiu)現象(xiang)(xiang)之后，切忌(ji)用手生拉硬(ying)扯，正確的(de)方法是在洗滌后用剪刀將起的(de)絨球(qiu)(qiu)輕輕地剪下，在經(jing)過(guo)幾次洗滌之后，隨著一些(xie)松散的(de)纖(xian)維脫(tuo)落，羊絨衫(shan)的(de)起球(qiu)(qiu)現象(xiang)(xiang)是會逐漸消失的(de)。
二、羊絨衫起球(qiu)的評定
羊(yang)絨衫的起球(qiu)(qiu)測定方法主要采取(qu)GB/T 4802.3—2008《織物起毛起球(qiu)(qiu)性能的測定第3部分起球(qiu)(qiu)箱法》。產(chan)品(pin)標準有FZ/T 73018—2012 《毛針(zhen)織品(pin)》和FZ/T 73009—2009《羊(yang)絨針(zhen)織品(pin)》，具(ju)體的評定等級見表
表1羊絨衫起球評定指標(biao)
注：低于二等品的為等外品。
上一篇：關于織物撕破強力的標準對比 下一篇：了解一下應該掌握的童裝安全知識