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羊絨衫起球的原因分析及評定指標
時間：2020-05-10 08:31
羊(yang)絨(rong)衫(shan)以其非凡(fan)的(de)(de)風格和高雅的(de)(de)氣質，深受廣大消(xiao)費者(zhe)的(de)(de)喜(xi)愛，但羊(yang)絨(rong)衫(shan)起(qi)(qi)球問題普(pu)遍，嚴(yan)重(zhong)困擾了消(xiao)費者(zhe)的(de)(de)使用。羊(yang)絨(rong)衫(shan)起(qi)(qi)球與(yu)羊(yang)絨(rong)纖維特點、面料(liao)結構(gou)和消(xiao)費者(zhe)穿著習慣都有關系。國家標準規定，只要羊(yang)絨(rong)衫(shan)起(qi)(qi)球等級不超過允許的(de)(de)范(fan)圍就是合格產品，即使質量最上乘的(de)(de)羊(yang)絨(rong)衫(shan)，在(zai)剛開始穿著時(shi)也(ye)會在(zai)的(de)(de)適度的(de)(de)范(fan)圍內有輕微的(de)(de)起(qi)(qi)球現象。本文為(wei)您做詳(xiang)細(xi)分析。
一(yi)、羊絨(rong)衫起球(qiu)的原因
1）纖維(wei)紗線
羊(yang)(yang)(yang)絨(rong)纖(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)的(de)(de)(de)(de)細度(du)、長度(du)、卷曲是重要(yao)的(de)(de)(de)(de)工藝特(te)征，羊(yang)(yang)(yang)絨(rong)與(yu)羊(yang)(yang)(yang)毛相比(bi)，首先(xian)是細度(du)小、長度(du)短、卷曲數少，這樣纖(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)在紗(sha)中抱合(he)力(li)小，外(wai)(wai)露毛羽多，再加上纖(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)滑(hua)糯在外(wai)(wai)力(li)的(de)(de)(de)(de)作用下從(cong)織物(wu)(wu)中滑(hua)移(yi)而產生(sheng)掉(diao)絨(rong)起球。其次是其纖(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)的(de)(de)(de)(de)縮(suo)絨(rong)性(xing)和(he)磨擦系(xi)數均(jun)小，纖(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)間(jian)的(de)(de)(de)(de)磨擦阻(zu)力(li)減少，但因羊(yang)(yang)(yang)絨(rong)纖(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)的(de)(de)(de)(de)鱗片結(jie)構(gou)，使得羊(yang)(yang)(yang)絨(rong)純紡(fang)或(huo)是與(yu)羊(yang)(yang)(yang)毛混紡(fang)的(de)(de)(de)(de)織物(wu)(wu)，羊(yang)(yang)(yang)絨(rong)易從(cong)織物(wu)(wu)中滑(hua)移(yi)出來，當纖(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)的(de)(de)(de)(de)集合(he)體受到(dao)無定向(xiang)性(xing)外(wai)(wai)力(li)的(de)(de)(de)(de)作用，逆鱗片受力(li)的(de)(de)(de)(de)纖(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)容易不斷向(xiang)根部(bu)移(yi)運，產生(sheng)掉(diao)絨(rong)，由于鱗片之間(jian)的(de)(de)(de)(de)棘鎖(suo)和(he)纖(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)體的(de)(de)(de)(de)彈性(xing)，纖(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)相互交錯(cuo)纏結(jie)起球，也引起了動物(wu)(wu)纖(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)所(suo)特(te)有的(de)(de)(de)(de)氈縮(suo)。
羊(yang)絨(rong)纖(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)的導電(dian)能力(li)差，衣服在(zai)穿(chuan)著時，纖(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)間互相磨擦(ca)，造成(cheng)電(dian)荷(he)(he)在(zai)纖(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)聚集，產生(sheng)靜電(dian)現象，介電(dian)系數高的纖(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)帶正(zheng)電(dian)荷(he)(he)，反之帶負(fu)(fu)電(dian)荷(he)(he)。如化學纖(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)與(yu)羊(yang)絨(rong)磨擦(ca)時，化學纖(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)帶負(fu)(fu)電(dian)荷(he)(he)，羊(yang)絨(rong)纖(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)帶正(zheng)電(dian)荷(he)(he)。不相同(tong)電(dian)荷(he)(he)的纖(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)之間相互吸(xi)引，易造成(cheng)織物(wu)掉(diao)絨(rong)起球，當(dang)天氣干燥時這(zhe)種(zhong)現象尤為嚴(yan)重。
纖(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)的卷曲波形愈多(duo)，在加捻時，纖(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)越不容易(yi)伸(shen)展，在摩擦過程(cheng)中纖(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)容易(yi)松動滑移，在紗線(xian)表(biao)面(mian)形成毛茸(rong)。為此(ci)，纖(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)卷曲性愈好，愈易(yi)起(qi)(qi)球(qiu)。纖(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)愈細，顯露在紗線(xian)表(biao)面(mian)的纖(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)頭端就(jiu)多(duo)，纖(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)柔軟性也愈好，因(yin)此(ci)細纖(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)比粗纖(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)易(yi)于(yu)糾纏(chan)起(qi)(qi)球(qiu)。而對于(yu)纖(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)長度來講，較短纖(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)比長纖(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)易(yi)于(yu)起(qi)(qi)毛起(qi)(qi)球(qiu)，因(yin)游離纖(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)較多(duo)，且短纖(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)之(zhi)間的摩擦力及抱合力均較小，纖(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)易(yi)于(yu)滑到織物表(biao)面(mian)，也就(jiu)容易(yi)產生(sheng)起(qi)(qi)球(qiu)現象。
紗(sha)(sha)(sha)(sha)線(xian)的捻度(du)(du)和表面光(guang)(guang)潔(jie)程度(du)(du)對(dui)起(qi)球也有較大影響(xiang)，捻度(du)(du)高的紗(sha)(sha)(sha)(sha)線(xian)，纖維間的抱合緊密，紗(sha)(sha)(sha)(sha)線(xian)在受到摩擦時，纖維從紗(sha)(sha)(sha)(sha)線(xian)內滑(hua)移相對(dui)少，起(qi)球現象減少；由于羊絨衫(shan)是(shi)柔軟(ruan)性(xing)織(zhi)物，過高的捻度(du)(du)會使織(zhi)物發硬，因此不能靠提高捻度(du)(du)來防止起(qi)球。紗(sha)(sha)(sha)(sha)線(xian)光(guang)(guang)潔(jie)度(du)(du)的影響(xiang)，紗(sha)(sha)(sha)(sha)線(xian)越光(guang)(guang)潔(jie)，表面毛茸則短而(er)少，所以光(guang)(guang)潔(jie)紗(sha)(sha)(sha)(sha)線(xian)不易(yi)起(qi)球。
2）織物(wu)組織結(jie)構(gou)
織(zhi)物(wu)(wu)(wu)組織(zhi)結構疏松的(de)織(zhi)物(wu)(wu)(wu)比結構緊(jin)密(mi)的(de)織(zhi)物(wu)(wu)(wu)易起(qi)(qi)毛起(qi)(qi)球(qiu)(qiu)，結構緊(jin)密(mi)的(de)織(zhi)物(wu)(wu)(wu)與外界(jie)物(wu)(wu)(wu)體摩擦時，不易產生毛茸，已經存在的(de)毛茸，又(you)由于纖維(wei)之間的(de)摩擦阻力較(jiao)大，而(er)不易滑(hua)到織(zhi)物(wu)(wu)(wu)表面來，故可減輕起(qi)(qi)毛起(qi)(qi)球(qiu)(qiu)現象(xiang)。高(gao)機號(hao)(hao)織(zhi)物(wu)(wu)(wu)一般比較(jiao)緊(jin)密(mi)，所(suo)以低機號(hao)(hao)織(zhi)物(wu)(wu)(wu)比高(gao)機號(hao)(hao)織(zhi)物(wu)(wu)(wu)易起(qi)(qi)毛起(qi)(qi)球(qiu)(qiu)。表面平整(zheng)的(de)織(zhi)物(wu)(wu)(wu)不易起(qi)(qi)毛起(qi)(qi)球(qiu)(qiu)，表面凹凸不平的(de)織(zhi)物(wu)(wu)(wu)易起(qi)(qi)毛起(qi)(qi)球(qiu)(qiu)。
3）染整工藝的影響
紗(sha)線或織(zhi)物(wu)經染色(se)(se)及整理以后(hou)，對抗起(qi)(qi)球性將產(chan)生(sheng)較大(da)(da)影響，這與染料(liao)、助劑(ji)、染整工藝(yi)條(tiao)件有關，以絞紗(sha)染色(se)(se)的紗(sha)線比用(yong)散毛染色(se)(se)或毛條(tiao)染色(se)(se)的紗(sha)線易起(qi)(qi)球；以成衫(shan)染色(se)(se)的織(zhi)物(wu)比紗(sha)線染色(se)(se)所織(zhi)的織(zhi)物(wu)易起(qi)(qi)球；織(zhi)物(wu)經過(guo)定型(xing)，特(te)別是經樹脂(zhi)整理后(hou)，其抗起(qi)(qi)毛起(qi)(qi)球性將大(da)(da)大(da)(da)增強。
4）穿著條件(jian)的影響(xiang)
起球(qiu)(qiu)現象需要從(cong)紡織品(pin)起球(qiu)(qiu)的(de)(de)(de)機理(li)說起。羊絨衫在穿著(zhu)過(guo)程(cheng)中(zhong)，由于(yu)外(wai)罩（如外(wai)衣）施加的(de)(de)(de)摩擦等作(zuo)用，紗(sha)線中(zhong)較短(duan)(duan)的(de)(de)(de)纖維(wei)的(de)(de)(de)一端滑移出來(lai)，在織物表面相互纏結成球(qiu)(qiu)。而羊絨纖維(wei)比羊毛的(de)(de)(de)纖維(wei)細而短(duan)(duan)，加上一般的(de)(de)(de)羊絨衫為粗(cu)梳產品(pin)，羊絨紗(sha)中(zhong)的(de)(de)(de)短(duan)(duan)纖維(wei)含量(liang)較高，更容易(yi)“呲”出來(lai)彼此纏結。
因此(ci)羊(yang)絨衫在內穿時，與其配套(tao)的(de)外衣里子最好是(shi)光滑的(de)，不能太粗糙(cao)、堅硬，內袋勿裝(zhuang)硬物(wu)或插筆等，以(yi)免(mian)局部(bu)摩(mo)擦起(qi)球(qiu)；在外穿時，袖子與桌面、袖子與沙(sha)發(fa)扶手、背部(bu)與沙(sha)發(fa)等不要(yao)長(chang)時間(jian)摩(mo)擦。穿著時間(jian)不宜太長(chang)，要(yao)注意間(jian)歇、交替穿著，使其恢復(fu)彈力，以(yi)免(mian)纖(xian)維疲勞損傷。
羊(yang)(yang)絨衫出現(xian)起球(qiu)現(xian)象之(zhi)后(hou)，切(qie)忌(ji)用(yong)手生拉硬扯(che)，正確(que)的(de)方法是(shi)在(zai)洗滌(di)后(hou)用(yong)剪刀將起的(de)絨球(qiu)輕輕地剪下，在(zai)經過幾次洗滌(di)之(zhi)后(hou)，隨(sui)著一些松散的(de)纖(xian)維脫落，羊(yang)(yang)絨衫的(de)起球(qiu)現(xian)象是(shi)會逐漸消失的(de)。
二、羊絨衫起球的評定
羊絨衫的起(qi)球測定(ding)方(fang)法主要采取(qu)GB/T 4802.3—2008《織物起(qi)毛起(qi)球性能的測定(ding)第3部分起(qi)球箱法》。產品標準有FZ/T 73018—2012 《毛針織品》和FZ/T 73009—2009《羊絨針織品》，具體(ti)的評定(ding)等級(ji)見表
表1羊絨衫起球(qiu)評定指標
注：低于(yu)二等(deng)(deng)品(pin)的為等(deng)(deng)外品(pin)。
