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羊絨衫起球的原因分析及評定指標
時間：2020-05-10 08:31
羊(yang)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)衫(shan)以其(qi)非(fei)凡的(de)(de)風格(ge)和高雅的(de)(de)氣質(zhi)，深受廣大消(xiao)費(fei)者的(de)(de)喜愛，但羊(yang)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)衫(shan)起球問題(ti)普(pu)遍，嚴(yan)重困擾了消(xiao)費(fei)者的(de)(de)使用。羊(yang)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)衫(shan)起球與羊(yang)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)纖維特點、面(mian)料結構(gou)和消(xiao)費(fei)者穿(chuan)著習慣(guan)都有關系(xi)。國家(jia)標準規定，只要羊(yang)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)衫(shan)起球等(deng)級不(bu)超過允(yun)許(xu)的(de)(de)范(fan)圍就(jiu)是(shi)合(he)格(ge)產(chan)品，即使質(zhi)量最(zui)上(shang)乘的(de)(de)羊(yang)絨(rong)(rong)(rong)衫(shan)，在剛開始穿(chuan)著時(shi)也(ye)會在的(de)(de)適(shi)度的(de)(de)范(fan)圍內有輕微的(de)(de)起球現象。本文為您做(zuo)詳(xiang)細分析。
一、羊絨衫起(qi)球的原(yuan)因(yin)
1）纖維紗線
羊絨(rong)(rong)(rong)纖(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)的(de)(de)細度、長度、卷(juan)曲是(shi)重要(yao)的(de)(de)工(gong)藝特征(zheng)，羊絨(rong)(rong)(rong)與羊毛(mao)相(xiang)比，首(shou)先是(shi)細度小(xiao)、長度短、卷(juan)曲數少，這樣纖(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)在(zai)紗(sha)中(zhong)抱合力小(xiao)，外(wai)(wai)露毛(mao)羽多，再加上(shang)纖(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)滑糯在(zai)外(wai)(wai)力的(de)(de)作(zuo)用下(xia)從織物(wu)(wu)中(zhong)滑移而產(chan)生(sheng)掉絨(rong)(rong)(rong)起球。其(qi)次是(shi)其(qi)纖(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)的(de)(de)縮絨(rong)(rong)(rong)性和磨(mo)(mo)擦(ca)系(xi)數均(jun)小(xiao)，纖(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)間的(de)(de)磨(mo)(mo)擦(ca)阻力減少，但因(yin)羊絨(rong)(rong)(rong)纖(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)的(de)(de)鱗(lin)片結(jie)構，使得羊絨(rong)(rong)(rong)純(chun)紡(fang)或是(shi)與羊毛(mao)混(hun)紡(fang)的(de)(de)織物(wu)(wu)，羊絨(rong)(rong)(rong)易從織物(wu)(wu)中(zhong)滑移出來，當纖(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)的(de)(de)集合體受(shou)到無定向(xiang)性外(wai)(wai)力的(de)(de)作(zuo)用，逆(ni)鱗(lin)片受(shou)力的(de)(de)纖(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)容易不(bu)斷(duan)向(xiang)根部移運，產(chan)生(sheng)掉絨(rong)(rong)(rong)，由于鱗(lin)片之間的(de)(de)棘(ji)鎖和纖(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)體的(de)(de)彈性，纖(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)相(xiang)互交錯(cuo)纏結(jie)起球，也引(yin)起了動(dong)物(wu)(wu)纖(xian)(xian)(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)所特有的(de)(de)氈縮。
羊絨纖(xian)維(wei)(wei)的(de)導電(dian)能力(li)差，衣服在穿著(zhu)時，纖(xian)維(wei)(wei)間(jian)互相(xiang)磨(mo)擦，造(zao)成電(dian)荷在纖(xian)維(wei)(wei)聚集(ji)，產生靜電(dian)現象，介電(dian)系數高(gao)的(de)纖(xian)維(wei)(wei)帶正電(dian)荷，反之帶負電(dian)荷。如化學(xue)纖(xian)維(wei)(wei)與羊絨磨(mo)擦時，化學(xue)纖(xian)維(wei)(wei)帶負電(dian)荷，羊絨纖(xian)維(wei)(wei)帶正電(dian)荷。不相(xiang)同電(dian)荷的(de)纖(xian)維(wei)(wei)之間(jian)相(xiang)互吸引(yin)，易造(zao)成織物(wu)掉絨起球，當天氣干燥時這(zhe)種現象尤為嚴(yan)重。
纖(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)的卷曲(qu)波形愈多，在(zai)加捻時，纖(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)越不(bu)容(rong)易(yi)(yi)伸展(zhan)，在(zai)摩擦過(guo)程(cheng)中纖(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)容(rong)易(yi)(yi)松動(dong)滑移，在(zai)紗(sha)線(xian)表面形成(cheng)毛茸。為此(ci)，纖(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)卷曲(qu)性愈好(hao)，愈易(yi)(yi)起球(qiu)。纖(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)愈細，顯露(lu)在(zai)紗(sha)線(xian)表面的纖(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)頭端就(jiu)多，纖(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)柔(rou)軟性也(ye)愈好(hao)，因此(ci)細纖(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)比粗纖(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)易(yi)(yi)于糾纏(chan)起球(qiu)。而對(dui)于纖(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)長度來講，較短(duan)纖(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)比長纖(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)易(yi)(yi)于起毛起球(qiu)，因游離(li)纖(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)較多，且短(duan)纖(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)之間(jian)的摩擦力及抱合(he)力均(jun)較小(xiao)，纖(xian)(xian)維(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)易(yi)(yi)于滑到織物表面，也(ye)就(jiu)容(rong)易(yi)(yi)產生起球(qiu)現象。
紗(sha)線(xian)(xian)的捻度和表面光(guang)(guang)潔程度對起(qi)球(qiu)也有(you)較(jiao)大影響，捻度高的紗(sha)線(xian)(xian)，纖維(wei)間的抱合緊密，紗(sha)線(xian)(xian)在受到摩(mo)擦時，纖維(wei)從紗(sha)線(xian)(xian)內滑移(yi)相對少(shao)，起(qi)球(qiu)現象減少(shao)；由(you)于(yu)羊(yang)絨衫是柔(rou)軟性(xing)織物(wu)，過高的捻度會使(shi)織物(wu)發硬(ying)，因此不能靠提高捻度來防(fang)止起(qi)球(qiu)。紗(sha)線(xian)(xian)光(guang)(guang)潔度的影響，紗(sha)線(xian)(xian)越(yue)光(guang)(guang)潔，表面毛茸則短而(er)少(shao)，所以光(guang)(guang)潔紗(sha)線(xian)(xian)不易起(qi)球(qiu)。
2）織(zhi)物(wu)組織(zhi)結構
織(zhi)物(wu)(wu)(wu)組織(zhi)結構疏松的(de)織(zhi)物(wu)(wu)(wu)比(bi)結構緊密(mi)的(de)織(zhi)物(wu)(wu)(wu)易(yi)起(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)毛(mao)(mao)起(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)球(qiu)(qiu)(qiu)，結構緊密(mi)的(de)織(zhi)物(wu)(wu)(wu)與外(wai)界物(wu)(wu)(wu)體(ti)摩擦時，不(bu)易(yi)產生毛(mao)(mao)茸，已經(jing)存在的(de)毛(mao)(mao)茸，又由于纖維之間的(de)摩擦阻力較大，而不(bu)易(yi)滑到織(zhi)物(wu)(wu)(wu)表面來，故可減輕(qing)起(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)毛(mao)(mao)起(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)球(qiu)(qiu)(qiu)現象(xiang)。高機號(hao)(hao)織(zhi)物(wu)(wu)(wu)一般比(bi)較緊密(mi)，所以低機號(hao)(hao)織(zhi)物(wu)(wu)(wu)比(bi)高機號(hao)(hao)織(zhi)物(wu)(wu)(wu)易(yi)起(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)毛(mao)(mao)起(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)球(qiu)(qiu)(qiu)。表面平(ping)整的(de)織(zhi)物(wu)(wu)(wu)不(bu)易(yi)起(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)毛(mao)(mao)起(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)球(qiu)(qiu)(qiu)，表面凹凸不(bu)平(ping)的(de)織(zhi)物(wu)(wu)(wu)易(yi)起(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)毛(mao)(mao)起(qi)(qi)(qi)(qi)球(qiu)(qiu)(qiu)。
3）染整工藝的影響(xiang)
紗線或織物(wu)經染色(se)及(ji)整(zheng)理以(yi)后，對(dui)抗起(qi)球(qiu)性將產生(sheng)較大影(ying)響，這(zhe)與染料(liao)、助劑(ji)、染整(zheng)工(gong)藝條(tiao)件有關，以(yi)絞紗染色(se)的紗線比用散毛染色(se)或毛條(tiao)染色(se)的紗線易(yi)起(qi)球(qiu)；以(yi)成(cheng)衫染色(se)的織物(wu)比紗線染色(se)所織的織物(wu)易(yi)起(qi)球(qiu)；織物(wu)經過(guo)定型(xing)，特(te)別(bie)是經樹脂(zhi)整(zheng)理后，其抗起(qi)毛起(qi)球(qiu)性將大大增(zeng)強。
4）穿著(zhu)條件(jian)的影響
起球現象需(xu)要從紡織(zhi)品起球的(de)(de)機(ji)理說起。羊(yang)絨衫在穿著過程中(zhong)(zhong)，由于外罩（如(ru)外衣）施加的(de)(de)摩擦等作用，紗線中(zhong)(zhong)較短的(de)(de)纖(xian)維(wei)的(de)(de)一端滑移出來(lai)，在織(zhi)物表面(mian)相互(hu)纏結成球。而(er)羊(yang)絨纖(xian)維(wei)比羊(yang)毛的(de)(de)纖(xian)維(wei)細而(er)短，加上(shang)一般的(de)(de)羊(yang)絨衫為(wei)粗梳產品，羊(yang)絨紗中(zhong)(zhong)的(de)(de)短纖(xian)維(wei)含量(liang)較高，更容(rong)易“呲”出來(lai)彼此纏結。
因此羊絨(rong)衫在內穿(chuan)時，與(yu)(yu)其配套(tao)的(de)外衣(yi)里子最好(hao)是(shi)光(guang)滑的(de)，不(bu)能太粗糙、堅硬，內袋勿裝硬物或插筆(bi)等，以免局部摩擦起球；在外穿(chuan)時，袖(xiu)子與(yu)(yu)桌(zhuo)面、袖(xiu)子與(yu)(yu)沙(sha)發(fa)扶手、背部與(yu)(yu)沙(sha)發(fa)等不(bu)要(yao)長時間摩擦。穿(chuan)著時間不(bu)宜太長，要(yao)注意(yi)間歇、交(jiao)替穿(chuan)著，使其恢復(fu)彈力(li)，以免纖維疲(pi)勞損(sun)傷。
羊絨(rong)(rong)衫出現起(qi)球(qiu)現象(xiang)之后，切忌用手生拉(la)硬扯(che)，正確的(de)方(fang)法是在(zai)洗(xi)滌后用剪刀(dao)將(jiang)起(qi)的(de)絨(rong)(rong)球(qiu)輕(qing)輕(qing)地剪下，在(zai)經(jing)過幾(ji)次洗(xi)滌之后，隨著(zhu)一些松散(san)的(de)纖(xian)維脫(tuo)落，羊絨(rong)(rong)衫的(de)起(qi)球(qiu)現象(xiang)是會逐漸消失的(de)。
二(er)、羊絨衫(shan)起(qi)球的(de)評定(ding)
羊絨衫(shan)的(de)起(qi)球測(ce)定方法主要(yao)采取GB/T 4802.3—2008《織物(wu)起(qi)毛起(qi)球性能的(de)測(ce)定第3部分起(qi)球箱法》。產品標準有(you)FZ/T 73018—2012 《毛針(zhen)織品》和(he)FZ/T 73009—2009《羊絨針(zhen)織品》，具體(ti)的(de)評定等級見表(biao)
表(biao)1羊絨衫起球評定指(zhi)標
注：低于二(er)等(deng)品的為等(deng)外品。
